The Black Pagoda :Konark

While we value monuments all over the world, we sometimes forget that there are equally good monuments in India too. They are many but the sun Temple of Konark occupies a unique position. Included in the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1984, this 13th century Temple is an eye opener when we reach there. Popularly known as Arkakshetra this temple along with Bhubaneswar and Puri forms a unique triangle on the tourist map of Orissa. Konark  means corner of the sun .There are many theories regarding the construction of the temple, but one  which appears probable and the most accepted is that it was constructed by Narasimha Deva I, (1238-1264) of the Ganga Dynasty. His Kingdom stretched from Ganga in the north to Godavari in the south and it was during this time that Odisha witnessed the zenith of prosperity. The temple was dedicated to the sun God. A copper plate inscription (verse 86) of Narasimha Deva II dating 1295 AD says that "King Narasimha I built at Kona-Kona a place of great renown, a temple for the Sun to live in with the other Gods".

The antiquity of Konark as a famous pilgrimage center for sun workship is mentioned in various Puranas .There is also a story that Samba the son Sri Krishna and Jambavati who had ridiculed Narad had to do his penance at Maitreyavana /Mitravana near the river Chandrabhaga for 12 years to propitiate the Sun God. This Mitravana could be Konark as it is believed, though the Chandrabhaga river today is much smaller river.

Various theories have been propounded regarding the purpose of selecting this site and erection of such a mammoth Temple or monument at Konark.This place as mentioned above enjoyed religious sanctity from the earliest of times.According to some observation, the mother of Narasimha Deva, suggested him to construct this temple here as this place was one of the few places left which had no big shrine. Sun is believed to be the  healer of leprosy and according to some presumptions Narashima Deva constructed this temple as worthy thanks for his healing from this disease. Other theory says that the King got the temple constructed out of a gratitude upon being blessed with a son, whom he ideally named as Bhanudeva(Sun God). Some others say that this was to signal his victory against Tughral Tughan Khan. The Bengal Muslim rulers had made attempts to destroy the Hindu shrines or rob them in this area.His(Narasimha's) victory over Muslim rulers had  augmented his  resources and status.

The King appointed Shivai Samantara Mahapatra as Superintendent for the construction of this magnum opus, while the name of Chief Architect (Sutradhar) was Bishu Maharana. It took 12 years,ten months and fourteen days to finish the construction.The image of Surya (Sun) was installed on Sunday the seventh day of Magha Sukla Paksha of 1258 AD.It is believed that 1200 Shilpins(artisans) worked on it non stop and its cost was defrayed by twelve years of revenue of the State. 

The original temple had a main sanctum sanctorum (vimana) which was believed to be 229 feet tall. Due to the weight of the superstructure, and weak  and sandy soil of the area,vimana fell in 1837. There could be many other factors responsible for the collapse of the Vimana like the effect of  a strong gale or earthquake etc. The audience hall (Jagamohana) still stands though it is 128 feet tall and the principal structure among all the ruins.The dance Hall (Nata mandira) and dinning Hall (Bhog Mandapa) are also surviving. 

The temple has been built in the form of giant ornamented chariot(Ratha) with 12 pairs of elaborate carved wheels( 3 meters wide)and pulled by 7 horses,4 on the right and 3 on the left.Built in the traditional Kalinga  architecture, and Khondalite rocks,it is carefully oriented towards the east so that the first rays of the sun strike the principal entrance of the temple. The wheels of the Temple are sundials which can be used to calculate the time.

 As in all ancient temples, this  temple too  has intricate art work,precisely chiseled figures and some erotic sculpture. According to an expert, eroticism was not infused as per some plan, but it was the imagery of the artists and the architect of those times. People of that era used to roam about in minimum clothes and partial nakedness was accepted way of life. 

Over the centuries the temple has been looted and degraded by Hindu and Muslim rulers, besides the Govt of the day and the people . It is said that Kalasa which was made of copper and the Padmadhavaja (lotus finial) was carried away by the Muslim rulers of Bengal in the course of their attack in 1568 AD.In 1627 the Raja of Khurda removed the sun idol from the temple and moved it to the Jagannath Temple at Puri. Stones and idols were frequently removed by the people affecting the foundation of the monument. Various efforts were also made during the British rule to conserve the Temple including planting of casuarina  and punnag trees to act as buffer against the sea wind etc. 

Though the Temple is not in a good shape, though the process of restoration is on, its beauty and charm is immense to attract tourists from all over the world.It is a splendid gem of  Odisha and India and its beauty can not be described by a layman like me. When you come back after the visit, you feel you have not seen much and much more is yet to be seen.It has to be revisited for it is a beauty, a joy , and a sacred things with an endless charm.

NOTE: The English called it a Black Pagoda and the Puri Temple was called a white Pagoda. All pictures are mine but the text is partially taken  from various historical sources. As per my information, it is not a temple as no worship is carried out there and hence shoes are allowed. There is a story about Dharmapada ,the son of Chief architect Basu Maharana , who leaped to death from the height of the temple to save the honor of his father. I could not get the complete story and hence have not elaborated it.

Sister Nivedita; born Margaret Elizabeth Noble; 28 October 1867 – 13 October 1911 was a Scots-Irish social worker, author, teacher and a disciple of Swami Vivekananda. She spent her childhood and early days of her youth in Ireland. 

Born: October 28, 1867, County Tyrone, United Kingdom

Died: October 1911, Darjeeling, India

Books: Footfalls of Indian History, Myths and legends of the Hindus and Buddhists, Studies From An Eastern Home.

Oct.The first Day Cover with 20 Paise stamp was issued on 27. 1968.

Sister Nivedita though born in Ireland spent most of her adult years in India. However Northern Ireland celebrated her 100 death anniversary on Oct 13, 2011.

She came to Calcutta on 28 January 1898, was initiated into Brahmacharya (a celibate yogic order) and was given the name `Nivedita' by Vivekananda on 25 March 1898. She immediately became intensely active in her work of uplifting India. She opened a kindergarten school for Hindu girls in November 1989, joined plague relief works of the Ramakrishna Mission from March 1899, left for the West in July to collect funds for her school, formed "The Ramakrishna Guild of Help' in America, went to Paris in July 1900 (where Vivekananda attended the Congress of the History of Religions), left for England alone in September 1900, and returned to India in February 1902.She was disowned by the Ramakrishna Mission when she politically espoused the cause of India's freedom from the British. However she remained in touch with the Mission through Sarada Devi (wife of Swami Ramakrishna, after whom the movement was named).She toured and lectured extensively against British rule which affected her health. She went to USA for her treatment and on return when she was  in Darjeeling for a brief stay she died. She was aptly described as "Lioness of India" by Swami Vivekanand. She was a true Hindu after her renunciation of Christianity and wrote some books on Hinduism some of  which were prescribed in Schools. There are number of educational institutions named after her  in various parts of India.

The Lost Hindu Empire of Cambodia by Dr. Neria H. Hebbar

The Lost Hindu Empire of Cambodia by Dr. Neria H. Hebbar

The Lost Hindu Empire of Cambodia by Dr. Neria H. Hebbar

Migrant Crisis by Suresh Mandan

Migrant Crisis by Suresh Mandan

Pompous Opinion Makers of India by Aneeta Chakrabarty

Pompous Opinion Makers of India by Aneeta Chakrabarty

Migrant Crisis

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Millions of desperate people are trying to enter Europe. They can be termed Refugees or Migrant, depending upon from what country they came from. About 50% of them are reported to be from Syria,and rest from Irag,Afghanistan,Iran and Pakistan. They are Sunnis, Shia, Christians,Kurds and Yezdis. They may be farmers, business people,women,men, children and sick elders who are trying to flee the ravaged Middle East. This is due to rise of identity politics,in the Middle East, Sub Sahara Africa and parts of Afghanistan and Pakistan.The wave of violence and killings in the Middle East reminds us of the violence that broke apart the Balkans and the Ottoman Empire and also to some extent the Partition era of the Indian Sub –continent . This migration wave may last longer as the war continues in Middle East, Sub-Sahara Region and unabated sectarian and ethnic violence in parts of Pakistan. There is now confusion in the Arab world, confusion between Sunnis and Shias, Iran and Saudia, authoritarianism and democracy, liberal nationalism and fanaticism and name what one may like. Does this mean that Arab world has gone nowhere despite money, oil and Sheiks or this is a malice which is going to engulf a major part of the world in years to come. There are about 8,50,000 refugees on the doors of Europe, ranging from Budapest to Berlin. The green signal from Germany has started the wave and hence there is deluge for Mama Merkel’s land. Would Europe be able to absorb them seamlessly or the migrants would create their own islands. The latter is more probable as seen in parts of Europe like Birmingham, Marseilles and Belgium. Europe or EU is itself in the throes of poverty with continuing budgetary and welfare crisis, youth unemployment and resulting frustration. Countries like Germany and Sweden may cope with migrants assuming that many of the migrants are well qualified and tech.savvy and may resolve the perennial skilled and non skilled problems of North and West Europe but the same solution may not work in countries like Greece or the older Eastern Europe countries like Hungary, Austria and Poland. The assumed success in Germany and Sweden can lead to more migration if Turkish war against Kurds escalates or the present military dictatorship fails in Egypt and radical Islamist take over forcing 9% to 10% Coptic Christians to leave their land forever. The same philosophy can work in Lebanon or parts of Africa which share borders somewhere with Europe. All these new arrivals to Europe would also give rise to security problems, backlash from extreme right groups and parties . All migrants many not be innocent or naïve. There are already fears that ISIS may have sponsored some of them or could have influenced them.Director of National Intelligence(USA) James R Clapper has already warned(Sept.11,2015) about this. ISIS operatives have been claiming that thousands of fighters would be smuggled into Europe and USA. While the USA has pretty aggressive screening system for asylum seekers, the same cannot be said about Europe.USA has  decided to accept 10,000 Syrian refugees. There may be similar security problems if after few years these migrants are not able to adjust themselves economically, culturally or social. They are not going to return to their native land but their existence in frustration could intimidate the locals. Capitalism the major social engine around which Europe galvanized itself has failed to keep up the pace. Liberal values like free expression individual self determination, human rights and all such hi-fi words around which Europe enlightened itself may soon find a clash with these Migrants who come from a different mind set. Many of them have fundamentalist approach, do not believe in certain freedoms which West enshrines and may not like concept of  open society which they did not  find in their land of origin . Fundamental Islam has not brought any hope of goodness so far,otherwise these people would not have abandoned their farmlands, businesses and their hearth for succor in Christian lands. There is crisis in both Middle East and Europe and neither has any manna for success. EU has not been able to do any thing for ME or Africa despite relatively generous aid and on the other hand Middle East has squandered opportunities which  Oil gave them in abundance. The Migrants will take few years to make a loss and gain statement on their leaving Middle East.?

Narayan Sarovar the last Temple on the Indo-Pak border

A Historical Temple On The Borders Of India-Pakistan.

Karor / 1 week ago / 

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Koteshwar is 166 kms from Bhuj, the District Hqrs of Kutch District of Gujarat. Koteshwar is located on the last piece of land on the Kori  Creek(Kutch Creek)  which separates India from Pakistan in the Arabian Sea.It has  an excellent road with couple of small towns coming on the way, like Mata no Madh.

This is Purneshwar Temple which is around 30 Kms from  Bhuj. It is an  old Shiv Temple built around 9th century but not much is known about it. It was twice destroyed by the Earth Quakes of 1819 and 2011. It is a neglected site and that appears to be astonishing that an art as ancient as 9th century is gathering dust. Long time back in 1980s when I called on the Chief Priest here, he requested for electricity in the Temple. Though electricity was provided by the Govt., the site also needs to be upgraded and restored.

Mata no Madh is name of the place, where the famous temple of Ashapura Maa, the head deity of Kutch Rajputs and family diety of Jadeja  rulers stands. It is located about 80 km from Bhuj. 

The temple was built in the 14th century by  Ajo and Anagor,two Karad Banias. They were the ministers in the court of the father of Lakho Fulani. The Earth Quake of 1891 damaged the temple. Within 5 years Sundarji Shivji and Vallabhaji, two BrahamKshatriyas repaired it. It was rebuilt by the local artisans, mainly Mistries(masons)of Kutch who were well known then and even now,but  most of them  have migrated to other countries in search of jobs.This ancient temple is now 58 ft. long, 32 ft. wide and 52 ft. tall. Once again the earthquake of 2001 AD shook it and its dome tumbled down. However, very soon it was repaired  and now it stands with a new grandeur.

There are two temples, the original old temple above the hill, which lies abandoned as after the earthquake of 1819, a new temple below the hill was built, which now houses the deity and is in use ever since. The picture above shows my wife standing in front of the temple gate. The Temple is looked after by the Head Priest from the Kapdi community and is known as Raja Bava.There are many other priests also who are working on the various positions in the temple. The Temple serves free food every day. There is huge Mela (Fair) held around Vijayadashmi and during this Navratri period many people go on foot from Bhuj to visit this temple on the auspices dates. People from the erstwhile Royal family also visit this temple to perform the Maha Puja around last day of the Navratri.

 

This the beginning of the 2km drive to Narayan Sarovar and Koteshwar.

Till we reach the above Arches, the land is barren, sandy but has lot of potential for  gypsum,china clay,lignite and other minerals.The land is rocky, uncultivated with sparse bushes of babool and other desert acacia plants. A few Kilometers from here is the plant of the Sanghi Cements which is almost on the borders of Indo-Pakistan in Kutch. Kutch has reserves of lignite, bentonite and other sodium based minerals.

 

Narayan Sarovar is one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites for Hindus. It is one of the five holy ponds in India mentioned in ShrimadBhagwat Geeta.Narayan Sarovar means the Lake of Narayan, a name for Vishnu.As per legends, one of the holy rivers of India, Saraswati River had an out let in to sea near the  present day Narayan Sarovar and waters of lake were filled with holy waters of River Saraswati, that is why this place was and is still considered as one of the five holy lakes by Hindus.Legends say that there was also a lake built by Alexander the Great which disappeared during the earthquake in 1819.

In this place there are Vaishnav  temples of Shri Trikamraiji, Laxminarayanji, Govardhannathji, Dwarkanath, Adinarayan, Ranchodraiji and Goddess Lakshmi.The   Queen of King Rao Deshalji II(Jadeja Dynasty) of Kutch had built these temples. Devotee from all over India come to worship the lords here. The architecture is ancient and awe-inspiring.The temples of Lakshminarayan and Trikamray are built in same style as Dwarka temple. The other five temples were built around the same period 1780-1790.

According to Hindu theology, there are five sacred lakes collectively called Panch-Sarovar (Five Lakes),namely  Mansarovar(Himalayas, UP Hills), Bindu Sarovar(Orissa) Narayan Sarovar Pampa Sarovar(Karnataka) and Pushkar(Rajasthan). A fair is held here on the 11th to 15th day of month of  Kartik of the Hindu calendar (November/December).

Mahaprabhu Vallabhacharya during his lifetime is said to have visited Narayan Sarovar and spent some  time here and as such the site is sacred also for followers of Pustimarg (Vaishnavas)

Here, you can  also see red antelopes or chinkaras  and in year 1981 the area around was notified and named after Narayan Sarovar as Naryanasarovar Sanctuary.

This picture is of the Office and storage room  as well working rooms of the Narayan Sarovar Trust .These are old buildings but have been restored to some of the old constructions. When we visited the Sarovar in Dec.2014, the lake was partially dry and the residual water was turgid. The Temple trust and the Govt. of Gujarat need to attend to the dryness of the lake by finding out some way to keep the lake perennial  filled with clean water. People come from distant areas and beyond to pay a visit to this holy place and when they  find the lake to be dry, they are unhappy and upset. The practice of the Hindu trust to keep the portals of the Temple closed during the afternoons here and in almost all other temple cities can be set right by keeping an additional staff to attend to the temple during the afternoons. Most of the people have no time to wait and this perhaps causes a loss to the spread of the religion.When questioned in this regard, the caretakers say that the Gods are taking rest. Silly notion. Can the Almighty ever sleep. If he sleeps what will happen of the world. 

There is also  a temple of Adinarayan in the village of Narayan Sarovar near the lake.

Seven stone temples are in a covered courtyard approached from the lake by flights of stone-steps and bordered by a strong wall. The wife of Rao Desalji (1718-1741), Vagheli Mahakunvar built the temples of Lakshminarayan, Trikamray, Adinarayan, Govardhannath, Dwarkanath and Lakshmiji  in 1734. The temple of Trikamray is in the same  style and shape like that of  Koteshwar. It is 72 feet long, 68 1\2 feet wide and 61 feet high and it has three side covered buildings with a large one in the centre, all capped  with domes resting on twelve feet high pillars.

The stone and wood frames at the entrance are luxuriously stamped. The doors are plated with silver in which flowers, fruits, leaves and creepers are with inscripted. The shelter of the God stands on a base and is supported on four silver pillars with fine spiral flutes. There are three Guphas(Caves) besides these temples: Ram Gupha, Lakshaman Gupha and Shesh Gupha

This picture is of the Office and storage room  as well working rooms of the Narayan Sarovar Trust .These are old buildings but have been restored to some of the old constructions. When we visited the Sarovar in Dec.2014, the lake was partially dry and the residual water was turgid. The Temple trust and the Govt. of Gujarat need to attend to the dryness of the lake by finding out some way to keep the lake perennial  filled with clean water. People come from distant areas and beyond to pay a visit to this holy place and when they  find the lake to be dry, they are unhappy and upset. The practice of the Hindu trust to keep the portals of the Temple closed during the afternoons here and in almost all other temple cities can be set right by keeping an additional staff to attend to the temple during the afternoons. Most of the people have no time to wait and this perhaps causes a loss to the spread of the religion.When questioned in this regard, the caretakers say that the Gods are taking rest. Silly notion. Can the Almighty ever sleep. If he sleeps what will happen of the world. 

There is also  a temple of Adinarayan in the village of Narayan Sarovar near the lake.

Seven stone temples are in a covered courtyard approached from the lake by flights of stone-steps and bordered by a strong wall. The wife of Rao Desalji (1718-1741), Vagheli Mahakunvar built the temples of Lakshminarayan, Trikamray, Adinarayan, Govardhannath, Dwarkanath and Lakshmiji  in 1734. The temple of Trikamray is in the same  style and shape like that of  Koteshwar. It is 72 feet long, 68 1\2 feet wide and 61 feet high and it has three side covered buildings with a large one in the centre, all capped  with domes resting on twelve feet high pillars.

The stone and wood frames at the entrance are luxuriously stamped. The doors are plated with silver in which flowers, fruits, leaves and creepers are with inscripted. The shelter of the God stands on a base and is supported on four silver pillars with fine spiral flutes. There are three Guphas(Caves) besides these temples: Ram Gupha, Lakshaman Gupha and Shesh Gupha

 

  

Koteshwar  is situated in the Kori Creek of the Arabian Sea on the western end of Kutch just opposite to Karachi-Pakistan, and  2 kms from Narayan Sarovar.As stated in a legend, when Lord Shiva was delighted with the worship and sacrifice of Lanka King Ravan, he gave him a Ling-full of religious power. Lest Ravan's ambition  become endless as a result of this advantage, all the Gods united together and conspired to gain the Ling from Ravan through dishonesty and got it  installed here and thereafter known as Kotilengeshwar. According to Hieu-en-Tsiang, a Chinese traveler of 7th century  Koteshwar port extended  five miles in boundary near the mouth of the river Indus, which used to follow along the coast of Kutch till the great earth quake referred above.He adds that  there were 80 monasteries with about 5000 monks in them during the good days. 

 

The above board (in Gujarati language) says that the temple is part of the Government Trust and the donations-income obtained from it is used for the development of the Temple.It also says the Huen Tsang a chinese traveler of 7th century said that the ancient temple was in the midst of the sea and there were 12 other smaller temples, which were the abode of Shaivites Sadhus who performed their puja's  here. The writing also speak about the killing of Unnad son of Gond Queen Chandrika who was associated with the installation of the Neelkanth Mahadev temple. He was killed by the local kings and administrators through conspiracy and cheating. The writing also says that the Mahant of the Temple enjoyed the status of "Pirs" and Pirs in this area were well respected.. The attempts of Allahaudin Khilji to destroy this temple is also visible here and there is a spot  where  he tried to strike at the door of the Koteshwar Temple. 

The writings  on the left side of the gate also  shows that the present fort and temple were re- constructed in 1820 by Sheth Sundarji and Jetha Shivji a  Brahmakshatriya.  The Temple's terrace  has three domes. Under the central dome, there is a large and beautiful carving  presented by Rao Desalji, the Jadeja Dynasty ruler. In the right dome, there is a large stone image of Hanuman and in the left dome; there is a large stone image of Ganpati. Inside the porch, there is a hall Mandap with a large central and two side domes. At the internal end of the hall, there are holy niches along with  figures of Ganpati and Hanuman. In the screen wall of the holy place, there are two inscriptions referring to the redecoration of the temples in 1820.

A small temple is built  close to the main  Koteshwar holy place   by the same Braham Kshatriyas  and at  about the same time in honour and memory of Kalyaneshwar. A tetragon pool filled by every high tide  is located just near the small temple where the Hindus bathe and complete their  Shraddha ceremony.

It is unfortunate that in spite of large number of visitors, the complex does not have many resources in the form of Hotels, restaurants and other information display centers. The inner road leading to Narayan Sarovar complex is a dirt path with no parking amenities. The Board in Gujarati displayed above has not been updated and no effort has been made to rectify the scratches and smudges made by some miscreants. This is one of the most important  holy places of the Hindus and deserves better treatment. It is a historical place with history dating back to the Ramayan Era and yet it is neglected. 

In Haridwar (Uttarakhand) there is a holy tree where people who have mansha(Wish) tie a holy thread before and after their wish is fulfilled. Here the wish is asked and fulfilled through the "Bindi".The Bindi Tree at Koteshwar.